Serves 10 to 12 as appetizers or botanas.

24-30 large fresh jalapeno chiles
2 cups mild vinegar
S ea salt
½ cup piloncillo, in small chunks, or dark brown sugar
¼ cup olive oil
¾ cup finely chopped white onion
3 cloves garlic, minced
1 ½ pounds (about 4 medium) ripe tomatoes, finely chopped
½ cup raisins
½ cup chopped green olives
¼ cup finely chopped large capers
3 6/12-ounce cans oil packed tuna, drained
½ teaspoon dried oregano, preferably Mexican
3 bay leaves
1 tablespoon lemon juice

Carefully slit the chiles down 1 side from the top to the top and scrape out the seeds and membranes. Place in a pot and cover with cold water, 1 cup of vinegar and ½ teaspoon of salt, bring to a boil, and drain. The third time you add cold water, dissolved the sugar in it, bring to a boil, and simmer about 6 minutes, until tender. Set aside to let cool.

Pour the olive oil into a large skillet over medium-high heat. Saute the onion until translucent, then add the garlic and cook for about 2 minutes. Stir in the tomatoes, raisins, olives, and capers, and cook for another few minutes. Add the tuna, oregano, and bay leaves. Continue to fry and stir for 8-10 minutes, until the mixture is almost dry and has a wonderful aroma. Add the lemon juice and salt to taste, remove the bay leaves, and set aside at room temperature for 20-30 minutes.

When the tuna mixture is completely cool, fill each chile so it can barely close, still leaving a gap. Arrange attractively on a serving platter. The stuffed chiles can be refrigerated for several hours in advance, brought to room temperature, and then served.